If you’ve spent enough time on #hairtok, chances are you’ve heard influencers spruiking the necessity and wonders of bond repair, a type of hair technology designed to bring damaged, chemical-treated hair back to life. And while these products aren’t new, they are having a bit of a moment right now.
But what do they actually do? Can you really “fix” damaged hair and split ends, or is a good haircut the only solution?
Bond repair products are rising in popularity. But what do they actually do?Credit: iStock
What is bond repair, and how does it work?
There are three main types of bonds in our hair, explains Chelcey Salinger, consultant trichologist at the Australian Trichology Centre in Sydney and Adelaide. The strongest are disulphide bonds, which cannot be broken by water. The other two – salt bonds and hydrogen bonds – are weaker and break when hair is wet or subjected to heat, and reform once hair dries.
While many brands claim their products can repair disulphide bonds – our hair’s strongest bonds that break during chemical treatments – Dr Michelle Wong, a cosmetic chemist based in Sydney, says the evidence for this is weak.
“It’s not entirely clear how they work, there’s not much evidence that they can repair these bonds,” Wong says.
“A lot of scientists actually think they work by preventing hydrogen bonds from breaking, which is a big deal still because they form a third of the strength of your hair.”
Our hair is weakest when it’s wet, Wong explains, and damaged hair tends to let even more water in. “In theory, bond repair works by sitting inside the hair and stopping water from entering as much.”
So, can bond repair fix split ends? While some brands and influencers claim it can, Salinger says a good cut is the best salve for split ends. Wong says that certain products that claim to target split ends work by “sticking” them back together, but the effect is merely cosmetic.
Bonding treatments should not be confused with conditioning products, adds Salinger, which simply coat the outside of the hair to improve its appearance cosmetically.
Who is bond repair for?
While bond repair is typically marketed towards hair damaged by heat, chemical or colour treatments, they can also be useful for virgin hair. Adrian Panayiotis, founder of Delilah Hair Studio, a Melbourne-based salon specialising in curly hair, says bond repair products are suitable for anyone, but recommends it particularly for those with fine, textured or curly hair. Those undergoing hormonal changes might also benefit from using bond repair products.
“I sometimes prescribe it to people for hair growth,” Panayiotis says. “If you’ve just had a baby, for example, and you lose all of that fine hair, sometimes hair can be sensitive for a long time and keep breaking.”
“And if someone had hair that used to curl that no longer does, I would recommend bond repair that would help bring hair back to life.”
He adds that exposure to UV rays can also cause damage that can be remedied with bond repair.
Ultimately, Wong says bond repair works best for damaged hair. “Because it works on the inside of hair, if your hair is very resilient and undamaged, it’s going to be really difficult for these ingredients to penetrate the hair,” she says. “Whereas when it’s damaged, it’s more porous.”
And while they can help repair hair, they’re not miracle workers, Wong says. “Bond repair products can help your hair behave more like when it was less damaged, but no product can completely get it back to how it was.”
How to use bond repair products
Two of the most talked about bond repair brands, Olaplex and K18, are expensive when compared to supermarket brands. Panayiotis, an advocate for hair care at every budget, says there is a range of affordable brands with bond repair lines. And if you want to try out a more expensive brand with a cult following, he suggests dipping your toe in with a shampoo or conditioner. “I like to get clients to see the results and then go from there and invest a little further.”
Wong says a leave-in treatment or mask, which sits on the hair longer than a shampoo or conditioner, will give you the best bang for your buck.
Since bond repair treatments typically contain high levels of protein that can be drying, Salinger says it’s best to pair them with a hydrating conditioner or mask, and avoid using them too often. Different products will have different suggestions for frequency of use, so always follow the instructions on the back of the bottle for best results.
She also recommends pairing them with a shampoo with a pH level of about 5.5 (this is the pH level closest to that of natural, healthy hair).
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