Everything you need to know about the buzziest beauty word: Peptides

Known as the “cosmetics cop”, Paula Begoun is the founder of Paula’s Choice and a skincare ingredient guru. She describes peptides as “fragments of amino acids that, when combined in certain formations, create specific peptides … and when peptides are formed in a certain way, they make specific proteins, like collagen, keratin and elastin, which are the fundamental building blocks of skin”.

Without peptides and proteins, skin can lose firmness and suffer from inflammation, and wrinkles can form. This makes peptides an essential part of any skincare arsenal.

There are five specific peptide categories: signal peptides, which prompt skin cells to produce collagen; carrier peptides, which help stabilise skin; enzyme-inhibitor peptides, which help reduce skin discolouration; neurotransmitter-inhibiting peptides, which help relax muscle contractions; and structural peptides, such as keratin, which help boost the skin’s barrier function.

So how do you bring them into your routine? Let’s begin at stage one. For a serum that will help target age spots, dullness, fine lines and wrinkles at a cellular level, try Douglas Pereira Platinum Peptide Day Serum ($320).

Peptide creams like The Ordinary’s Niacinamide 10% + Zinc 1% ($17) help replenish depleted collagen reserves by moisturising and plumping the skin. Around eyes, use your ring finger to gently dab around the orbital bone morning and night to help diminish wrinkles and brighten skin. Try Ole Henriksen Banana Bright+ Eye Crème ($64).

For a weekly mask that targets enlarged pores and acne and is packed with vitamins and minerals as well as peptides, try Laneige Bouncy & Firm Sleeping Mask ($55) to brighten, mattify and moisturise skin. Keep it in the fridge for a cooling pick-me-up.

To protect and hydrate lips, go for Paula’s Choice Hyaluronic Acid + Peptide Lip Booster ($39) to firm and smooth and as the perfect antidote for dry winter lips. Remember to keep it purse-side.

The jury’s out on peptide cleansers as you basically wash the peptides off, but if you do want to go full throttle, gently massage a dedicated cleanser into the face and neck (don’t forget to go all the way around to the back of your neck). Try Murad Soothing Oat and Peptide Cleanser ($72).