Where to sit, what to order: The inside scoop on Balmain’s hottest new (old) pub

Few Sydney pub reopenings have ever been more anticipated than that of The Dry Dock’s, a stoic old boozer on a backstreet in Balmain. The heritage-listed hotel has traded at its current site since 1857, but the doors closed a couple of years ago for an extensive renovation. Now the pokies are out and duck liver parfait is in.

What’s the big deal

Co-founded by James Ingram and Mike Everett, Peninsula Hospitality is the group behind the relaunch. It purchased The Dry Dock in 2021, and considerable money has been spent to transform the pub into a handsome space of brass, zinc, leather and stained timber. Ingram knows a thing or two about running restaurants after holding high-level management roles across other hospitality groups including Merivale and Solotel, so big things are expected for the food and drink offerings. While Balmain has no shortage of croissants, Thai and sushi, dining rooms with one-hat ambitions are rare.

Where to sit

The new-look Dock is divided into three major areas: the front public bar, a lounge and a dining room. (Four areas if you want to count the attached punter’s den with dark-wood panelling. It might be the best-looking TAB room in the country.)

If you’re just keen on “just the one”, the dog-friendly front bar is the go. The 120-seat lounge is best for casual catch-ups with mates, and it’s where I’ll be spending most of my time come winter, preferably on the leather sofa, with an Old Fashioned ($18), by the double-sided fireplace. The lounge’s luxe steakhouse-style booths can seat a family of two adults and four children without too much squishing.

The 100-seat dining room is made for longer lunches and larger groups, and a table near the enclosed leafy courtyard on the western flank is the light-filled spot to be.

What to eat

Chef Ben Sitton’s lengthy (almost overwhelming) dining room carte features oysters, snacks, salads, pastas, sides, a seafood platter, market-price lobster and big, meaty mains. “Josper” pops up in several dish descriptions, referencing the imported Spanish charcoal cooker that’s becoming more popular in Sydney restaurants than weekend surcharges. A sharply dressed rocket salad with Josper-grilled peaches, macadamias and pecorino ($25) is one of the best things I’ve tried at the pub so far.

Another menu highlight from the opening week is a caper-forward steak tartare ($29) with right balance of mustard and Worcestershire, while rotisserie chook ($36) is nicely enhanced with pine nuts, currants and pan juices.

Sitton comes to The Dry Dock from glamorous French bistro Felix in the CBD, and ensures the pub’s rock oysters ($6 each) are served on ice, the fries are properly crunchy ($12), and the steak frites ($38) is generously glossed with flavour-loaded Cafe de Paris butter. There are four steak options (plus a $52 lamb chop), topping out at $165 for an 800-gram Brooklyn Valley rib-eye on the bone.

Many dining room dishes, including the steak frites and peach salad, are available on the shorter public bar and lounge menu too. If you’ve ever wanted to sit in a TAB room and watch harness racing while eating duck liver parfait with burnt grapes and potato bread ($22), now you can.

Can I get a chicken parma?

No, but there’s about a thousand other pubs in Balmain where you can.

How much is a schooner?

A Victoria Bitter will set you back $8; Guinness is $13.50 a pint. There’s an above-average by-the-glass wine list, ranging in price from a 2022 Mike Press Sauvignon Blanc from the Adelaide Hills ($11) to a 2018 Moillard-Grivot Burgundy ($24).

The Australian and Old World-focused cellar holds plenty of well-priced bottles, while an ambitiously long cocktail list features classics such as the margarita ($20), negroni ($20) and Manhattan ($22). The quality of your daiquiri ($18) may depend on your bartender’s cocktail-making experience while the pub finds its feet.

Do I need to book?

For the dining room, yes. It’s going to be the Peninsula’s hottest spot for scoffing profiteroles and splashing pinot leading up to Christmas. Tables are available on a walk-in basis for the bar and lounge though, and you shouldn’t have too much trouble grabbing one during the week. I just slinked in at 6pm on a Tuesday and immediately sat down.

Any favourite details?

Full marks to the colourful still-life artworks sharing wall space with vintage photographs of Balmain. And the front bar tables have the heaviest utensil caddies I’ve ever encountered, made from aluminium by George & Willy in New Zealand, and weighty enough to be a real-life Cluedo weapon. Mrs Peacock in the fancy public lounge with the knife holder.