This uncommonly beautiful NZ destination is like an enchanted forest
If there was ever a case of the weather being for the birds, this has to be it, as a moody mist mingled with a hint of drizzle resolutely vapes its path through a damp and dark cloud forest that’s home to an open-air anthology of Aotearoa avian life.
Ringed by nine kilometres of Stalag-like predator-proof fencing, Orokonui Ecosanctuary encompasses more than 300 hectares of coastal forest, making it a haven for New Zealand’s curious birdlife.
This uncommonly beautiful place, a half-hour’s drive from the South Island city of Dunedin, is not that uncommon in New Zealand.
The kaka (not be confused with the kea).Credit: iStock
It’s a country, after all, that’s built a reputation for creating eco-sanctuaries designed to shut out introduced, non-native species, including invasive Australian brushtail possums introduced from across the ditch by European settlers as a source of food and pelts.
Inside Orokonui, a Maori name which roughly translates as “healthy place”, I’m striding along a section of more than 10 kilometres of the gravel and grass track that traces its way through the sanctuary.
I’m here as a member of a shore excursion party from Silver Muse, a luxury passenger ship on a fortnight long voyage between Auckland and Sydney via the eastern coasts of New Zealand and Tasmania, with Dunedin/Port Chalmers the vessel’s latest port of call.
Back inside the sanctuary, a large parrot, from somewhere out of the drifting fog, suddenly descends onto a feeder station with all the grace and precision of a commercial airliner executing an especially hard landing.
Tui (or koko) at the sanctuary.
I assume it’s a kea, the world’s only alpine parrot, but I’m swiftly disavowed by our guide who explains that kea, a true high-flyer, favours altitudes considerably higher than this 300 metre-high cloud forest.
The nearest Kiwi equivalent behaviourally to our mischievous cockatoos, the kea is notorious for attacking the windscreen wipers and rubber window linings of vehicles at New Zealand’s alpine car parks.
The visitor centre at Orokonui Ecosanctuary.
Instead, what we have before us is a kaka, a more svelte though still sizable parrot identifiable by olive-brown colouring and hooked bill.
This parrot, with its imposing red-orange underwing and deep crimson belly, was first released into Orokonui in 2008. The ecosanctuary is now home to more than 60 of the birds.
This species, along with other wild, non-captive New Zealand birds such as the tui with its tell-tale twin tufts of white feathers on its throats, are attracted to Orokonui not only by its safe predator-free natural environment.
There’s the promise here of regularly replenished, strategically located, feeder stations providing water and seed, positioned a suitably discreet but visible distance from human visitors.
The Royal New Zealand Air Force, ironically, uses a flightless bird as its symbol.Credit: Alamy
Yet not even all those attractions are enough to entice Orokonui’s rare Haast tokoeka – subspecies of the southern brown kiwi – into the open during my visit.
(Did you know that New Zealand is the only country whose modest air force has, as far as I can tell, a flightless bird in its roundel, the traditional identifying circular disc on military aircraft? And, sure, Australia’s air force has a kangaroo on its roundel but at least – a roo is sort of – airborne between hops).
I’m no twitcher, but it’s tempting to declare this place, echoing with the calls of native korimako, or bellbirds, a genuine enchanted forest.
Even devoid of its birdlife it’d be well worth a visit for the gorgeousness of its fern-festooned vegetation. The ecosanctuary hosts nearly 200 native New Zealand plants which thrive in the absence of introduced mammals such as deer, goat and possums.
Towards the end of the tour, we emerge from forest into grasslands, making our way back to the sanctuary’s architecturally striking visitor centre with its thrusting beak-like roof.
Before we head back to the ship, there’s still one more bird to admire. It’s the rare and precious takahe, with its iridescent turquoise plumage, nowadays found mainly in the South Island’s premier Fiordland region and sanctuaries such as this one.
Silver Muse operates a 14-day luxury Auckland to Sydney cruise.
Despite having embarrassingly mistaken a kaka for a kea – forgive me, Kiwis – my short time in Orokonui has made me better understand the itch to twitch.
It’s another reminder that while Australia and New Zealand share much in common as nations, they are by no means birds of feather.
THE DETAILS
Cruise
A 14-day Auckland to Sydney cruise with Silverseas aboard Silver Muse starts from $9350 per passenger. To be sure of a place, book the featured Orokonui Ecosanctuary shore excursion prior to departure. See silversea.com
Stay
For pre-cruise accommodation in Auckland, consider the 99-room The Hotel Britomart in Auckland. These boutique, eco-minded lodgings are centrally located within walking distance of Auckland’s Princess Wharf cruise terminal. From NZ$288 ($265) a night. See thehotelbritomart.com
More
See orokonui.nz
The writer travelled as a guest of Silversea Cruises and The Hotel Britomart.
Sign up for the Traveller Deals newsletter
Get exclusive travel deals delivered straight to your inbox. Sign up now.