Ticking off the three key goals of a Byron holiday
By Riley Wilson
The blue-faced honeyeater has the right idea, making herself at home between huge green fronds in the meticulously landscaped gardens of the new Swell Hotel.
At this sophisticated hotel-motel, expertly reimagined within what was once the Byron Bay Motor Lodge that sat on this corner of Butler Street for over a decade, you’d never know you’re right in the heart of Byron. It’s a quiet, Mediterranean-inspired pastel-pink spot with 16 rooms, a “wellness” offering, and a cosy bar with a mustard velvet couch.
Windows open and cleverly double as bay window-style seating.
We’re keen to achieve the goals of Byron’s famous sign – “Cheer up, slow down, chill out” – and we’re in good stead to tick it off within minutes of arrival.
Swell opened in October, following that extensive renovation and six months as flood relief displacement housing in 2022.
The former Byron Motor Lodge has been expertly reimagined as boutique hotel The Swell.
We’re embracing a 30-degree spring weekend, leaving Swell only to eat, explore and people-watch.
After settling into our sumptuous room – replete with a king-size bed, accordion-style windows that open out to a sitting area, arched reading nook, rain shower and 1970s bohemian-inspired shades of pink velvet, light timber and natural stone – we exhale. Do we start with a cuppa in the guest garden or partake in cocktails beneath the tiki-style umbrellas in the courtyard? Both.
Lounging on curved stuccoed seats, with the blue skies interrupted only by palms and festoon lights, the afternoon sun settles in our bones.
Exhale, inhale, and we’re off. Exploration begins with drinks at Japanese eatery Moonlight, where bartender Hamish offers to guess our poison.
Soon, we’re presented with a spot-on umeshu bourbon sour and a tropical “Panda Highball”. They pair effortlessly with kingfish sashimi (garnished with kombu oil and sprigs of micro shiso), and hibachi-grilled scallops on the half-shell, which swim in punchy umami butter beneath orbs of finger lime. But we must control ourselves. Dinner’s within spitting distance, over at party-central Smoking Camel.
Neon-lit dining at The Smoking Camel.
We save space, then proceed to fill it with Middle Eastern-inspired share plates: fluffy whipped baba ganoush topped with ultra-crispy curry leaf, chewy, honey-soaked carrots studded with caraway, and raw tuna in place of lamb in the kibbeh nayeh (traditionally, a spiced raw mince dish).
Middle-Eastern-inspired share plates at The Smoking Camel.
The town is buzzy and loud, bright with evening personalities and performances, but we roll ourselves back to Swell – and awake in paradise. Blooming frangipanis and coconut-scented sunscreen mingle with the salty breeze from Main Beach, a 10-minute walk away.
The morning’s demands include coffee and a slice of spelt banana bread (with cultured butter, of course) before a wellness session.
A sauna and five-degree ice bath – “See if you can do two minutes!” encourages Sorcha Horgan, Swell’s general manager – is complimentary to all Swell guests. We follow it with an unhurried dip in the pool.
The only guests we encounter (rooms are occupied, but guests seem to respect the retreat-like energy) are two young men from Panama. Blissed out on sunshine, we swap stories about fishing, container ships and surfing.
Lights Years, in the buzzy Johnson Lane precinct.
The Jonson Lane precinct is the latest treasure trove expansion of the stylish Byron footprint. We explore it before lunch at Asian diner Light Years, which was once at Smoking Camel’s current spot on Lawson Street.
The eatery is a cornucopia of softness, with gentle pastel salmon tones playing off bamboo ceiling panels and billowing linen curtains. The menu is exceptional (and exceptionally priced, with generous banquet options starting at $69), but the mussels in a deep, tom yum-like broth with lemongrass and coriander leave an impression. Paired with sticky lamb ribs and buttered, furikake-topped slices of corn, it’s a transcendent meal.
We wander along the beach on our way home, stopping at gelateria Frankie’s for a scoop of banoffee ice-cream. The afternoon sun hits the lighthouse, so we dig our toes deeper into the sand.
“Slow down” has been achieved, and – after another sauna, sunbake and barefoot wander – so has “chill out”. We’ve ticked off “cheer up” many times over, but we cap it off with one final meal.
Italian fixture Pixie’s.
Italian-inspired wine bar Pixie’s, also in the Jonson Lane precinct, transports us to a moody, intimate trattoria.
As we raise a glass of Australian riesling, plates begin to crowd the table. We scoop creamy burrata and basil oil onto slabs of focaccia and twirl crab spaghetti onto forks.
The famous unofficial slogan beneath the “Welcome to Byron Bay” sign. Credit: Alamy
From our corner booth, we overlook the marble-topped bar and tables of grinning patrons as laughter reverberates through the room. “Cheer up,” it seems to whisper. “Slow down. Chill out.”
THE DETAILS
Visit
Light Years Group own Light Years Asian Diner (lightyearsasiandiner.com), Pixie (pixiebyronbay.com), The Smoking Camel (thesmokingcamel.com) and Moonlight (moonlightbar.com.au). Do Frankie’s (frankiesgelato.com) for gelato. For other bites, try Karkalla (karkalla.com.au) for new takes on native produce, the Beach Hotel for rotating beers on tap, and Costa Tacos for cheerful Mexican.
Fly
Jetstar and Qantas service Ballina Regional Airport. It’s a 30-minute drive from BAL to downtown Byron. See jetstar.com.au; qantas.com.au
Stay
Swell Hotel is in the heart of Byron, within walking distance of downtown. Standard rooms from $400 a night. See swellhotel.com
Drive
Byron Luxury Tesla, run by husband and wife Nigel Raynard and Louise Fitzgibbons, will ensure you’ll arrive in style. Hop in the Tesla, sip on a bottle of sparkling water, and ease into the short drive. See byronbayluxurytesla.com.au
Byron Bay Luxe Limousines has a fleet of luxury vehicles, too. See byronbayluxelimousines.com
The writer was a guest of Swell Hotel and Light Years Group.
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