I have short blonde hair, ears to rival King Charles and a seven o’clock shadow but after my first skin needling treatment I am a dead ringer for Samantha Jones from Sex and the City. This was not my intention.
The sex positive television character received a chemical peel in a 2002 television episode, temporarily leaving her skin the same shade of red as my freshly needled face, which is attracting curious and concerned glances on the street.
Actor Kim Cattrall as Samantha Jones who receives a damaging chemical peel in a 2002 episode of Sex and the City; journalist Damien Woolnough, 50, immediately after receiving a skin needling treatment.Credit: HBO
What is microneedling?
The tomato transformation is a result of a clinician using needles in a sleek delivery device to puncture my skin. Most clinics penetrate the skin to a depth of 0.5 to 2.5 millimetres. The wounds trigger collagen production to tighten skin and reduce signs of ageing.
The treatment, which has been linked to celebrities such as Angelina Jolie, Gwyneth Paltrow, Jennifer Aniston and their ex-romantic partner Brad Pitt, is being marketed as an alternative to injectables such as Botox and fillers.
“It’s about having confidence in your own skin without changing your expression or filling it to look like a Kardashian,” says Samantha Appel, owner of the Skin Bar clinics in Sydney and Melbourne. Appel’s clinics focus on skin needling treatments and don’t offer injectables.
A customer receiving a skin needling treatment at the Skin Bar in Double Bay. The treatment promotes collagen growth.Credit: Louise Kennerley
“In the US currently the biggest luxury beauty trend is having glass skin, which is more about having clear skin, rather than just filling it.”
Since opening the Skin Bar in 2020, Appel now has seven locations and plans further expansion.
Jennifer Aniston, 55, spoke to People magazine about a facialist who introduced her to microneedling.Credit: Getty
“There is a growing interest in microneedling due to its ability to stimulate collagen production and improve overall skin health,” says Georgie Edwards, head of skincare treatments at Silk Laser Clinics.
Who is microneedling for?
“While injectables remain popular for targeting specific concerns like wrinkles and volume loss, microneedling is favoured for its versatility and results for all ages.”
“Many people are seeking results-driven treatments with minimal downtime, and microneedling fits this requirement well.”
The promise of a minimal downtime gives hope to my stop-sign red face, but most people are focused on longer-term benefits, and claims of tighter skin and the diminishing appearance of wrinkles and acne.
“There is scientific evidence to support the benefits of skin microneedling to stimulate new collagen production and remodelling of old collagen,” says Dr Leona Yip, consultant dermatologist from Skin Partners, Brisbane.
“This can lead to skin-tightening, refining pore size and scar remodelling.”
Part of Appel’s motivation for launching the Skin Bar was the success she experienced in treating her cystic acne.
“I would hide behind make-up,” Appel says. “I tried many things but for me, needling was at the forefront results-wise.”
Many clinics claim to be able to assist with the treatment of acne scarring in addition to volume loss and wrinkles, but Yip warns that results may differ.
“Some cases of mild acne scarring improve over a series of microneedling treatments, but often do not completely disappear,” Yip says. “Many cases of more extensive or severe acne scarring require more advanced combination treatments (usually dermatologist-led) with microneedling, lasers, chemical peels, injectables and various surgical techniques over months to see improvement.”
Treatment for pigmentation should also be approached carefully.
“Most cases of pigmentation require the correct diagnosis first by a dermatologist before planning diagnosis-specific treatments that may be prescription- or laser-based,” Yip says.
Does microneedling hurt?
Another aspect worth discussing is the pain. I have experienced treatments for Botox and laser rejuvenation and the pain was equivalent. I have also been slapped and punched in the face. My treatment with an RF micro needle that utilises radiofrequency was somewhere in between.
“It goes that bit deeper,” Appel says, with some RF needles able to penetrate up to 3.5 millimetres deep. “We create a safe space for our clients and help them through any discomfort they might experience. Most people have done their research and are prepared for the sensation.”
Nearly 20 hours after my treatment, the redness has subsided and I’m able to attend a smart lunch without enduring Samantha Jones comparisons.
A few weeks later, my skin looks healthier, firmer and my jowl-line resembles a jawline. Initially, when my clinician suggested coming back in six weeks, I winced and went even redder, but I’m contemplating going under the needles again.
“It’s like the gym for your skin,” Appel says. “Unlike some people who become addicted to injectables, it hopefully won’t have you thinking about increasing your filler, paralysing new parts or using threads.”
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